I was encouraged by Mike Spencer’s article describing the adaptation of two Slater’s MR coach kits into S & D coaches in Bulletin No 175, to construct a typical S&DJR branch train of the early 1900s. The Slater’s coaches have high arc roofs and can be adapted to build two S&DJR coaches: the Third and the Composite. The Composite does require surgery to the luggage doors and to the coach ends and roof as, according to Russ Garner, all Composites had low arc roofs. In addition Russ Garner says that the low arc roof coaches appear to have run on 10ft-10ft wheelbases and not the 10ft6in-10ft6in of the high arc roof carriages.

If this is all too much trouble, the low arc roof Composite is available from both Connoisseur and Blacksmith in etched brass: all their S&DJR coaches that I have built, or am in the process of building, have used Gordon Weddell’s drawings, which are of low arc roof stock. His drawing of a 6-wheel Third was reproduced in Bulletin No 184. The rail to roof height is given as 11’ 4 ½ ” or 11’ 6” for the higher arc roof, although in photographs the difference seems a little more than suggested. The two profiles are worth modelling, as they are very noticeable in a rake of coaches. There are some unanswered questions concerning the two roof radii and the possible difference in height of the coach sides. Russ Garner is undertaking extensive research into S&DJR coaches but in the meantime I recommend reference to his ‘Rolling Stock Register’ for guidance as to the correct details for specific coaches. Unfortunately this was not available when I built the coaches and I have some errors to correct: Third Nr 54 had a low arc roof and will need to be renumbered!

Connoisseur offer only the 2 compartment Brake Third with end ducket (see Model Railways December 1979) rather than the more common Brake 3rd with turned under ends and with a central ducket (see articles in Model Railways by P.B.Kloss in May 1980 and Jem Harrison in August 1980). This Brake Third is currently only available in 7mm from Trevor Charlton’s range of etched zinc sides and ends: I am in the process of constructing this and two other 6-wheel coaches in zinc. All three have a high arc roof and are based on Bunce and Giles drawings in past issues of “Model Railways”. Trevor Charlton offers etched zinc sides and ends for a good range of S&DJR coaches and his price list gives details of the drawings from which the parts were etched.

Each coach, whether etched brass or plastic, was constructed broadly in accordance with the manufactures’ instructions. The main exception is the roof, for which I use a method recommended by Peter Korrison. The compartment partitions are cut down in height to just below the cantrail, a block of 10mm obechi or balsa, the denser the better, is cut to fit between the sides and ends of the coach and then carved and sanded to the roof profile. With etched brass coaches, there is usually a flange at the top of the coach side, which is folded to the roof profile. This is very carefully removed and a fine square section brass tube is soldered to the coach side, to restore its rigidity. The top of the tube should be level with the top of the compartment partitions, which are slotted to suit.

A thin layer of Evostick is applied to the obechi and, when the glue is almost dry and the solvents have largely evaporated, the Slater’s roof (or a preformed plasticard roof in the case of the brass kits) is pressed into position. A thin paper handkerchief is fixed to the roof with solvent, to simulate a canvas covering. “Man-sized” tissues are best, to avoid creases or folds, and the two layers of the tissue can be peeled apart: one thin layer of tissue is easier to wrap round the undersides of the roof. It is also possible to obtain coloured sheets of tissue and the dark grey would be suitable for a more heavily weathered roof. All roofs are removable: two fine holes are drilled into each end of the coach and black Peco track pins are inserted through the ends into the obechi. If the holes are drilled through the moulding at the top of the coach ends, the pins can hardly be seen.

Each window is glazed using separate rectangles of Cobex. These are fixed by four narrow strips of double sided sellotape, applied around the inside of each window with a pair of tweezers. I wasn’t sure if this method would be durable but no windows have come adrift to date.

The brass vehicles are detailed using parts from the Slater’s kits, which can be obtained separately from Slater’s Plastikard. End steps and lamp irons are fixed by drilling through their simulated rivets and inserting short lengths of fine brass rod. The rods are then inserted into holes drilled in the coach ends: time consuming, but they shouldn’t fall off! Connoisseur recommend fixed axle boxes, with extra slop in the central axle to aid smooth running. I followed this advice and the coaches run well on my short layout. With future expansion of the layout in mind, I plan to fit Slater’s 6 wheel compensation units to the Connoisseur coaches.

The ferrules for the communication cord were deliberately omitted. I thought they might make the lining difficult.

I would like to record my thanks to Richard Dagger,Steve Ehrlicher and Russ Garner for their patience in answering my many questions. Russ Garner’s “Rolling Stock Register” is an invaluable aid, as are the sequence of articles in Model Railways in the 1970s and 1980s. If you wish to compare your model with the real thing, do visit Washford and see the three coaches under restoration-or better still, lend a hand. After modelling, working in 12 inches to the foot is fascinating!

Painting S&DJR coaches by Fred Berry

I use the same method of preparation and painting for all coaches, whether etched brass, zinc or plastic. I wash, clean and thoroughly dry the coach: the wheels are left in place but are carefully masked before any painting. The coach sides, ends and the complete underframe are sprayed in red oxide car primer, which gives a richness to the S & D blue, not achievable with a grey primer. I spray with Railmatch S & D Blue, after allowing the primer to dry overnight. If the paint has been mixed to the right consistency, one coat usually suffices. The droplights and the bolections are painted to represented polished mahogany. Freight Bauxite seems to give a reasonable colour match.

Lining the coach sides is made much easier if the door handles and grab rails are not fitted until after painting. The raised beading is painted in Humbrol Bright Red (No 19) and, when dry, it is overpainted in gold, leaving just the slightest whisker of red showing on the outer edges of the beading. I use printers’ gold powder mixed with gloss varnish and this is mixed with the brush, as I use it. The central black line is added with a Rotring pen, using Rotring black ink and leaving the previously painted gold exposed as a fine line each side of the black. HMRS Pressfix transfers take care of the lettering, numbers and crests. The solebars are also blue and fully lined but with the vermilion line on the inside. The remainder of the underframe is brush painted in satin black: I mix my own using a mixture of Humbrol Matt and Gloss Black. I don’t use Humbrol Satin Black, as I prefer a slightly silkier finish.

A final spray of satin polyurethene varnish (Ronseal) over the coach sides and ends finishes the job. The coach interiors and seating are brush painted in appropriate colours.

Coach roofs are sprayed in Humbrol Matt White, with just a touch of black added to reduce the ex-paint shop appearance.

By Richard Barton
richard@barton3.freeserve.co.uk